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Friday, October 29, 2010

Zé da Guiné - Lisbon's King of Cool

Lisbon has become one of the most visted cities in Europe and is attracting hordes of tourists from all over the world. During the day some take to the monuments, others take to the beaches. But when the night comes almost everyone climbs up to the Bairro Alto, the liveliest part of the city and where you can find all kinds of restaurants and bars. After 11 p.m. the streets are crowded with people getting in and out of the dozens of bars and small disco bars. You may wonder whether this has always been like that. Yes, to a certain extent, but the difference is that where you now find trendy clubbers, common people and curious tourists there was once a different crowd. This neighbourhood with narrow streets was a red light district and the hang out for left-wing conspirers against the fascist regime and was not always a safe place to go.


But, around 1980 things started to change and a new crowd began conquering the place. One of them was José Barbosa, also known as Zé da Guiné who decided to open there the first club, named Souk. Suddenly, a new kind of clientele started venturing the streets, mainly actors, writers, journalists and young people delighted by the new sounds and trends from abroad. Decadence was becoming cooler and punks, new punks, new romantics, fashion designers and art students had a new place to go. The place was called Rock House and once again Zé da Guiné was part of it, the cool bouncer from a tiny club where we used to dance to the sounds of Killing Joke, Residents, Sex Pistols, The Cure or David Bowie. The Bairro Alto was suddenly living its most creative days and it was the right place for a new cultural elite wanting to break the conservative rules. Records had to be bought abroad, shoes like Doc Martens and Creepers were ordered from England, France or Germany and everyone shared a passion for the likes of Joy Division and Echo and Bunnymen. Everyone tried to have an style of his/her own and buying second hand was a good solution and one of the hippest things to do. Besides its entrepreneurial nature Zé da Guiné was also known for his unique style. Tall and elegant you could see him wearing all kinds of outfits with an astonishing nonchalance and that is why he is today and for many Lisbon's king of cool.

But his venture in the Lisbon nightlife did not stop here. Around 1985 more and more people, mostly wearing black, flocked to the Bairro Alto to bars such as Café Concerto, Artis, Frágil, Ocarina or Três Pastorinhos. Those places, along with Rock House, later renamed Jukebox, were the highlights of the Lisbon movida. But they all had one thing in common, alternative music, from electro pop to new punk through to the new trends in dance music with some hints of jazz and new jazz. Bars closed around 4 o'clock but that was not enough for this eager crowd. And once again Zé da Guiné, together with Mário, owner of Artis, and Hernâni, PR and bouncer in places such as Cafe Concerto came up with the idea of hosting Friday events in an old palace. Every Friday the eager crowd descended the cobbled streets of Bairro Alto and took to Longas Noites (Long Nights). Every night was a surprise. Climbing up the stairs the main room would host all kinds of events, from punk concerts to transvestite shows or dodgy magicians performing with snakes. Nearly everyone could go on stage and make a performance. Near the main room was the main bar and there he was, this tall elegant black man with a huge smile and that strong handshake and its impeccable style.

This example example of cool decadence lasted only four years and after which Zé da Guiné went back to the Bairro Alto where he opened Be Bop, a bar where you could have drink to the sound of jazz and buy second hand clothing in pop up events he use to host there. Nowadays the Bairro Alto is lacking creativity, has become a place to make easy money and Zé da Guiné is no longer to be seen. He is ill, suffering from a disease which is affecting his mobility and that is why today, November 20, 2010, a club named Maxime and a dozen musicians are hosting a fund-raising party to help the man. We owe him a lot and we do want to see him back in the streets of Lisbon. Despite being ill he claims he will be there tonight. I do hope so as I miss the man with the nice smile and the strong handshake.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Karl Lagerfeld e Eça de Queiróz


Karl Lagerfeld foi convidado para ser editor por uma edição da revista Francesa Madame Figaro, lançada em plena Semana da Moda de Paris, em Setemnbro de 2010. Nesta revista confessa que um dos seus escritores favoritos é Eça de Queirós. "Li o seu livro mais famoso, os Maias, uma saga familiar proustiana sobre a vida em Portugal e em Lisboa no final do sec XIX. E descobri depois por acaso outros livros dele que estou agora a ler O Primo Basílio e 202 Champs Elysées que decorre em Paris onde morreu, e o Crime do Padre Amaro. É genial. A reeditar".



Ao que parece, Lagerfeld, que para além de criador consagrado também gosta de editar, estará interessado em editar a obra de Eça de Queiroz em França. E não pára por aqui. Quando a espectáculos recomenda "la trés grande pianiste portugaise en son domaine privé(le dernier Concerto pour piano de Mozart).... cela ne se refuse pas". Welcome to the club Herr Lagerfeld

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Portraits from Kosovo by Xavier Martins

"Under the Blackbird's Eye" is the name of an exhibition by the Portuguese photographer Xavier Martins. After spending months in Kosovo this photographer took a series of pictures from people in different settings. Albeit common people with common lives, what is most striking are the stories of these people. Among the most striking examples are the pictures of a nun with a small monatery in the background. After talking to Xavier Martins you are told that this convent has been blown to pieces, along with 140 others in the region. One of the most beautiful pictures is that of a bunch of kids swiming in a big pound. With arms one wide a boy, the same boy in the exhibition's poster, dives in the water. Again, talking to the photographer, you realise this is a crater formed after a bomb explosion and are informed that this water contains impoverished urainium.
The opening of this exhibition in Lisbon was a huge success given the artistic quality of these pictures. This exhibition has now turned into a project, as part of the proceedings from the sale of these pictures, in limited editions, will go to projects aimed at helping children in need in the region of Kosovo. For those who cannot afford to buy these pictures there is also a selection of 18 postcards available soon for sale online, this being one of the main engines of the project.
These pictures will travelled the world and will be shown in different cities in Portugal and Seville, A Coruña or Belgrade, among many others. Besided helping children in Kosovo this photographer's idea, who is now 95% committed to this project, is to get enough financial support to travel to this region and to photograph these people ten years after. The task will be daunting but is been made easy by the gentle collaboration of people and organisations who are helping him keep track of these people and to find out what happened to them since these pictures were taken.
For further information or should you like to exhibit this pictures in your town please search for "Under the blackbird's eye" on Facebook.

Roberto Verino - Um galego muito distinto



Nascido em 1945 em Verín, na Galiza, uma localidade muito próxima da fronteira portuguesa, Roberto Verino é um dos nomes mais sonantes da moda espanhola, tendo celebrado em 2009 os seus 25 anos de carreira. Para marcar a data, apresentou uma colecção retrospectiva no 25º aniversário da Pasarela Cibeles de Madrid, certame onde, no início da sua carreira começou por apresentar as suas primeiras colecções.
Adepto de uma moda que aposta na qualidade, afirma que se inspirou na roupa masculina para criar vestuário prático para as mulheres activas dos nossos dias.
Nos seus desfiles nota-se o cuidado que põe no styling e nada é deixado ao acaso, como aconteceu agora na mais recente edição de Setembro de 2010 da Pasarela Cibeles onde prestou homenagem às grandes divas do cinema.
Para além da roupa tem vindo dedicar-se à produção de vinhos, tendo lançado a marca "Terra do Gargalo", aproveitando as qualidades dos terrenos da sua terra natal galega, na zona do Tâmega. Para breve promete abrir uma loja em Lisboa. Até lá, pode sempre visitar a loja que tem no outlet Freeport, em Lisboa, a juntar a uma outra que já tem no Outlet de Vila do Conde a que se junta uma loja da marca  no Centro Comercial Peninsula, no Porto.

Tenente perfume for men



After his first perfume for woman, Jose Antonio Tenente, one of the most renowned Portuguese designers launched his new fragrance form men in Lisbon.



The event took place at MUDE (The Fashion and Design Museum) in Lisbon and was attedned especially by long time friends and admirers of Jose Antonio Tenente



Jose Antonio Tenente started his career 22 years ago and is a regular presence in the Lisbon Fashion Week as one of the main designers in these events.